(10-06-10) This small island in the Mexican Pacific has become a true haven for observation of white sharks. Its numerous population and clear waters make it be a unique place in the world.

    It is surprising that, in the 21st Century, period of greatest technification ever, there are remnants of an atavistic past yet, a past no so long in time. At the expense of discovering the giant squid and some other “depths monster”, there is a main character in the sea, synonym of badness and cruelty for many: the white shark.

    As in most cases, the lack of knowledge along with sensationalism and poor rigor have make this great animal be the embodiment of all ocean evils. We have to approach the world of this great predator forgetting all prejudices of films, articles and false news, and willing to observe one of the most incredible beings living in our oceans.

A PLACE LOST IN THE PACIFIC

    Guadalupe Island is in the Mexican Pacific (not to be confused with the Caribbean island of the same name). It is located 240 km. off the coast of the Baja California peninsula; Ensenada Port is the closest point to it and ships go from here.

    It is a long volcanic island of 250 square kilometres. It was discovered in 1602 by Sebastian Vizcaíno and was largely ignored. In the beginning of the 19th Century it became preserve for hunting sea lions and elephant lions, and later on a place for whalers to put in, what caused a brutal ecological impact. In the 20th Century there is a small fishing population living there, as well as a small Mexican Army garrison, which is still in the island.

    But when becomes to be famous is very recently, in the first years of the current century, when the treasure sheltered in its waters is discovered. Some American fishing boats come here searching big fishes, especially tuna. They begin to discover the abundance of white sharks, what puts this island in the world map of great diving destinations.

    Finally in 2005 the Mexican Government declares the whole area (476.971,2 Ha) as Biosphere Reserve and develops a management plan. Remember that since 2001 white shark is protected in Mexican waters as an endangered species.

NATURE IN GUADALUPE

    Natural values of the island are many, such as the Guadalupe Fur Seal (Arctocephalus towsendi), unique for many time and from where other populations of other islands have recovered; or the largest population of sea elephant (Mirounga angustirostris) in the Pacific. Also, some species of birds and different native plants form this natural jewel.

 

    But, undoubtedly, the main character in the last years is the white shark. We know little about them, although several scientific projects are ongoing (see box). This is probably the largest known concentration of the species, which could be about 300 specimens.

    They come to the island between June and October, males first and then big females. It looks like a love appointment, joined to breeding. Anyway, conditions for catching preys are great, there are animals rich in fats such as tuna and sea lions and mainly elephant seals.

    After this time, animals scatter, although it seems that there is a small stable population in the island. Its scattering area would be located in the middle of the Pacific, near Hawaii Islands, where there are the big shoals of tuna, but we know very little yet. 

FIRST MEETING

    After almost a day sailing from Ensenada aboard the Sea Escape, Guadalupe appears on the horizon. The first orange sun rays in the morning are not able to clear the fog and clouds that are still covering the highest areas. Its volcanic walls stain with the warm colours of the aurora in the Pacific.

    Guadalupe has the mystery halo and great attraction that oceanic islands, lost in the middle of the immense ocean, have. Mind associate this one to others appeared in films, such as the ones in Jurassic Park or King-Kong, but with the difference that “monsters” here live at sea, not in land.

    We anchor in some kind of gulf protected from winds, so water here is very calm and clear. It is a place that reminds the Mar de las Calmas from the Canary Islands. Once anchored, cages are thrown into the water making a lot of noise, and baits are distributed (they are fixed, it is not allowed to throw them free, or to throw blood or oil, etc.).

    The morning is perfect. Water is absolutely blue, ideal to see any visitor. Time goes by and we are all very impatient.  We know that there are many sharks, but nothing assures that we will meet them soon, as Fernando Aguilar, director of Club Cantamar and owner of our boat say.

    Tiburón! Shark! Sailor’s voice seems to amplify in the rocky amphitheater that surrounds us. Where, where? That is the question. But we see the unmistakable silhouette gliding across the stern, near the cages, quite soon. A young male, 3 m long, begins to wander around. It is just a snack for what will happen next, since during the time we are there we’ll see different specimens, more or less curious, bigger or smaller, more or less… but always amazing!

INTO WATER

    Diving is from cage in the surface, so you do not need to be able to dive. Cages give protection and some kind of comfort. They have an area more open to allow the observation, and, especially, to take images.

    As it usually happens, “the first time” is never forgotten. In the case of the Great White, the first time is always a before and after in any the life of any diver. The 20 or 25 meters of visibility gives us an excellent field of view. Thus, on the front, we see a shape in the distance. As we have seen in documentaries so many times, the real god of the oceans appears. It is a “small” big female, one of the more than 100 identified in the area.

    Far from the clichés, seen a thousand times, the animal shows no aggressiveness. It swims through the area showing no particular interest in the wonderful tuna bait hanging from the buoy. Despite the absence of violence seen in films, the scene is impressive.

    This is a huge animal that is over 4 m. long. But, more than it size, its sturdy structure what stands out the most. In fact, in this area sharks are slimmer than in other areas of South Africa.

    During all our dives, this one is going to be the prevailing behaviour: absolute calm. Some attacks to baits, but nothing similar to that violence we are used to see. It is likely that we these are more natural behaviours than when there are artificial stimulus. Is this one a new way of seeing the species? We are sure it is.